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Monday, 9 December 2013

In search of Piefection- Martin Player High Class Butchers, Whitchurch, Cardiff

Yes, I apologise for the title.

A pie can be a sad, limp thing: a claggy, stodgy brick of a thing which repays the effort in eating it, by sitting in your stomach like a breezeblock.


A pie, done well, can be a remarkable thing. Something positively cheering. A harmonious meeting of textures.


Unsurprisingly, it's the latter I'm pursuing. I figure that something that has historical roots stretching back over 11,000 years must have some reason for sticking around.


Which is where Martin Player High Class Butchers of Whitchurch comes in.


They proudly state their pies are made and baked on the premises, which sets their stall out rather: you have to be pretty confident of the excellence of your product if you're going to measure the journey from block to kitchen to oven to counter in mere metres.



They wouldn't be alone in that of course. 

"In South Glamorgan, Martin Player High Class Butcher, from Park Road, Whitchurch,
Cardiff, was also celebrating after scooping four golds for its Traditional Pork Sausage,
Steak & Ale Pie, Steak & Kidney Pie, and Steak Pie.
The shop opened in 2000 and has won a number of awards, including, earlier this year,
having its Welsh Beef Burger named the best in the UK at the Q Guild of Butchers
These were the three we went for: all beef, with a cheeky pork pie thrown in for an amuse-bouche and a corned beef pasty as an entrée.

Well, it wouldn't be a balanced meal otherwise, would it?



 The pork pie was a promising start: a shortcrust pastry that manages to be light and crisp and still warm is a good thing. A Good Thing. The filling- a coarser mince than might be typical, with a hint of black pepper and unadulterated by jelly- had a 'looser' texture than your common or garden example and was pretty damn bang-on the money.
 That's what they mean when they talk about golden pastry. Exemplary.


 The corned beef had just the right amount of onion, just the right flakiness in the puff pastry and instantly reminded me of my dear old Gran's corned beef hash which she would feed me when I visited in the holidays.




On to the main course.
The pies.
Award-winning pies, no less.




 So let's cut to the chase.
These are pies to reckon with.


 The pastry is faultless- a healthy golden glow, just the right thickness to keep its shape outside the foil case, essential for those emergency al fresco pie situations we all know and love.




 The fillings were well-seasoned, rich and deeply savoury, with large chunks of appreciably tender beef coated- never swamped- by the oozing gravy. In short, exactly what a pie needs to be.

Someone should recognise these pies on a national stage; award these things for their... oh.


Those pallid excuses should hang their head in shame. Yes, I know they don't have heads, but you get the point. This is (ahem) 'Piefection'. Or pretty, pret-ty, pret-ty close. Even if Whitchurch isn't your usual patch, or the frequently meagre parking is offputting, it'd be worth your while. And if that doesn't convince you, the shop is exactly what a butcher should be: staff in uniform, handwritten chalkboards outside, striped awnings and all. A proper butcher's- one to make Withnail's Uncle Monty weep.


http://www.martinplayer.com/


029 2061 6094

info@martinplayer.com
10 Park Road
Whitchurch
Cardiff
CF14 7BQ





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