The Secret Supper Clwb

Last week saw a  first-ever  visit to The Deck in Harrowby Street, at the invitation of Emma Evans and her Secret Supper Clwb (note to non-Welsh-speaking readers: this is not a typo). The deal goes something like this- the Clwb hires a venue to showcase Emma's talents; people turn up, often in pairs, to eat communally on large shared tables. News of the event is circulated online, reservations are taken. There's no intimate diner-a-deux here; the emphasis is all on the shared experience, the convivial.

And, of course, the food. With no choice over decor or even a kitchen to call her own, the entire concept could come crumbling away so easily. Face it- you have no choice over most of your co-diners (let's assume you're on tolerable turns with your immediate companion...), it's probably far from being a familiar setting. It's risky. Which is where confidence in your food comes to the fore.

Emma, it is fair to say, is a woman on a mission. A self-taught cook whose earliest memories are of happy hours in the kitchen with her grandmother, she has catered for dinner-parties and functions for some time now. The Secret Supper Clwb has existed in its current form since 2012; ultimately, a permanent premises would be the goal, as setting up anew in various kitchens does come with obvious challenges. However, Emma's vision is more far-reaching, with her wish-list featuring a series of pop-up kitchens where she could pass on her palpable enthusiasm to those who want advice or basic skills in the kitchen. She might not want to 'teach the world to sing', but she does want it to understand its food. Her passion is obvious and contagious.

After being shown to a subtly-lit (yes, I'll get the excuses in early for the poor picture quality) basement room whose walls bear witness to the notorious 'Deck Challenge', we were formally introduced to our chef by her trusty aide Helen. Shaking off the faint surreality of shaking hands with someone you were watching on telly half an hour previously*, expectations were high, with my neighbouring visitor a returning customer and clearly a big fan.

The starter- again, apologies for the doesn't-do-it-any-justice-whatsoever-pic- was a broth with minced pork and prawn dumplings. The flavours were clear and bright- as clear as the stock, with that lovely purity of colour you get from long, slow and careful coaxing. (I was later told the stock was begun some three days previously). The usual suspects were present and correct, with ginger and garlic and star anise and soy and the tang of fish sauce providing a welcome background to the spring onion-marbled dumplings and slices of red chilli flecking the liquid, enabling those less keen on direct heat to 'eat around'. It was becoming clear we were in store for some painstaking cooking.

The main course was greeted with some real enthusiasm; wooden boards piled with steamed cabbage parcels and sautéed oyster mushrooms, laying siege to some visually sumptuous duck. Confit legs and thickly-sliced medallions of breast, the former marinated in cinnamon and star anise, garlic salt and fennel while the breasts had had their fat rendered before being finished in the oven. The result was dense, tender meat running with its pink juices, further complemented by a figgy-treacly sauce which was a rich accompaniment and, in the words of more than one guest at my table, "to die for." I sensed it would have taken only a slight miscalculation in the meat-per-diner stakes, to wrench the veneer of civilisation aside and have people snarling at each other over the board as they sought their share of the fortunate bird.

Dessert (and this comes from someone with nary a sweet tooth in his greying head) was a beguiling mixture of crisp tempura on tart pineapple, a warming ginger syrup and the slight graininess of fresh coconut ice-cream. Apparently inspired by childhood memories of holiday treats, this was a punchy yet surprisingly light conclusion to our meal. Terrible photo alert. Again.

As we gradually dispersed, well-fed and happy, I felt I'd been party to something special. The company had been excellent, the food a real treat and the venue intriguing enough to investigate on return. In short, an exclelnt evening based on an unusual premise.  Each event promises a new theme- I believe the next is Spanish- And yes, I was there as their guest, and yes, I'd have cheerfully paid without hesitation. I'll be back.

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* Emma is currently in Sky's 'My Kitchen Rules' with Jason Atherton and Lorraine Pascal. (Oh and yes, I did have to ask- Lorraine Pascal really is that stunning in 'real life'...).