Because that's what Katiwok resembles- an explosion of Asian pop-culture that has you half-expecting to see cameras about to roll. Specifically, let's talk about wallpaper. Because the first time you visit Katiwok you might feel you've been punched in the retina by a design graduate who has rather overdone it on the tartrazine. Lurid pinks and greens compete for attention with walls full of artfully tattered posters. Asian cinema dominates, and Crouching Tiger rubs shoulders with Game of Death. Bollywood spectaculars abound; it probably doesn't matter if you don't know your Baldwin from your Bachchan, your Mifune from your Madeley or your Kurosawa from your Coronation Street. Perhaps the intention is to reproduce the sensory overload of life in a bustling Asian city. Clearly, a huge amount of thought and effort has gone in to the concept and the execution: those posters didn't find, tear or paste themselves. Either way, it's very much an acquired taste. For the record, my wife loves it. Perhaps it's a younger person's thing.
But here's the good news. If you do acquire a taste for the unique look of this place on Crwys Road, it'll be because you went back there. Again. And again. And there's a very good reason for that, because (sound of a man going out on a limb here...) Katiwok represents some of the best value, most flavoursome, biggest-bang-for-your-buck food in the city.
Seriously. It's not just the big flavours here. It's the fact it's all cooked to order. It's the freshness. The welcome is warm- regulars are the lifeblood of a business like this, and are greeted with genuine enthusiasm.But ultimately it's the food.
The menu counts curries, pizza, noodles and fried rice (the clue's in the name) among its staples. But Kati rolls take centre stage here. A display describes their origin in the prissiness of a British officer and the resultant habit of serving them wrapped in paper, a custom continued here and very much in keeping with the strong visual signature of the restaurant.
was a rich, dark, glossy curry) is full of aromatics-ginger, chilli and garlic- and laced with lentils and egg.
Masala fries are advertised as 'spicy' and are liberally seasoned with a hefty dose of ground spice. Very moreish, and particularly good laced with the provided coriander and yoghurt dressing.
Chicken spring rolls were up next: the the tender shreds of chicken were wrapped in a crisp exterior that was clearly only seconds out of its oil. Not a trace of heaviness or greasiness.
Fried chicken wings were ordered 'hot'. They arrived very much living up to their billing- sticky and sweetly fiery. A finger-lickin' pleasure (why hasn't someone used that line for fried chicken before...?)
Given that Katiwok has received both local and national plaudits- it featured in Observer Food Monthly's Best Cheap Eats for Wales, 2013 and won the South Wales Echo Food and Drink Awards 2014
in the takeaway category- I always expect it to be even busier. Although the phone is rarely quiet for more than a few minutes, a table is usually available. It should be busier, dammit. This is roll-your-sleeves-up, lick-your-fingers-clean food; soul food if ever I tasted it.
Criticisms? Well, if I had to find room for improvement (and you're really, really twisting my arm here...) then it'd be good to see a wider range of beers. Tiger, Tsingtao, San Miguel and the like are all present and correct but if you can serve Budweiser then you can find room in the fridge for a Brooklyn or a Goose Island IPA. Like I said- hardly a damning indictment. But when the food is this good, and the welcome and service this personable, I'm scratching around trying to find anything that even faintly resembles a negative.
As we were leaving, a couple at a corner table asked the staff in wonder, 'How come we've never been here before? This food is just so good!' Indeed. It is. So- if you've not tried Katiwok yet- do yourself a favour. And here's the clincher- not only is this freshly-cooked, vibrant, punchy food- but it constitutes what you might term 'a right bargain'. Value for money is not something I typically spend much time discussing on this blog but in the case of Katiwok it's impossible to overlook. The kati rolls are £3.99 each; the roll, soft drink and side dish meal deal comes in at a very reasonable £7.99 (add a pound to substitute a beer).
Now- factor in the offers which pop up on their Twitter feed- add an extra kati roll for £1, for example- and you'd be daft not to. You're no longer in the realm of 'really good value'- you have crossed into the kingdom of the borderline ludicrous.
I'm struggling to name a better 'flavour, divided by price, equals value' example in the city.
Can you?
Katiwok
53 Crwys Rd Cathays
Cardiff CF24 4ND
info@katiwok.co.uk
029 20 376 222
Opening Times
Monday – ClosedTuesday-Friday:
12:00 – 14:30 and 17:00 / 22:30 (23:30 Friday)
Saturday & Sunday:
12:00-22:30 (23:30 Saturday)
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