Hang Fire Smokehouse- The Pilot, Penarth

The view from Hang Fire's new home is a stunner. Standing outside The Pilot on Queens' Road and looking back toward Cardiff, the steps sweep away from you and draw your eye to the expanse of the Bay. It's a fair bet you'll spot the visual differences between this and previous residencies in Splott and Canton.

Inside, too, things are rather different. Another cosy space, sure, but rather than Shauna running front-of-house alone, their newly constructed 'indoor BBQ shack' in a corner of the bar (go in, turn left, can't miss it) means that everything now happens right in front of you. Orders are taken, queues are formed, food is served- and if you're quick, sauces (£10 for three) are replenished!

And queues there certainly will be. There are few things certain in this life, or so they say: one bet-your-hat certainty is that wherever this food appears, lines of hungry people form. And they don't quit 'til they're fed. You know the drill by now- get there early. And as this is The Pilot's craft beer festival, it's a obvious chance to sample some of what's on offer, from some of the fantastic American pale ales to local brewers Crafty Devil and the more established Otley.

This slimmed-down menu is designed to feed people quickly: if the numbers last night were an indicator- and with surely scores more planning to make the trip today- this is an adroit move in a compact space. There are several debutants on offer alongside the usual staples, and if there's one thing I've learned in life, it's to try a Hang Fire Special if I possibly can.

A trifecta of sandwiches, then:

The classic pulled pork roll (£5) was its familiar, 'textbook' self: strands and chunks of hand-shredded meat, with the dense dark sticky bits from the outer parts of the shoulder in there too for texture. I'm glad I've had the chance to see how they make this stuff, though it always impresses me to consider the sheer attention to detail that goes into it. Seasoned Hang Fire watchers will note the more 'summery' coleslaw this time round, as much thinner-cut version than previous meetings.

 The new hoagies- one brisket, one Texas Grindhouse- are substantial propositions.

The former (£6) teams fat slices of free-range, slow-smoked, locally-farmed brisket with sweet (and garishly pink!) slices of pickled onion: the fact it receives one final anointing of cooking liquor before being served, is a deft and toothsome treat.

 The Texas Grindhouse (£8) is the big daddy of the new sandwich menu. The same brisket serves as camouflage for the smoked beef meatballs underneath, lurking with intent under cheese and their own hot sauce. This kicks it up a notch in terms of heat- and yes, those are sliced whole red chillies in the dressing, along with the cerise onions and gherkins- and if that doesn't sound like enough flavour for you, this also comes 'French dipped' in the meat juices.

 You can 'beef' (thanks, I'm here all week- try the veal) up your hoagie with assorted sides (beans, corn etc) for an extra fiver. One much-missed element is the house fries, but this menu is about quick turnaround. When the residency 'proper' kicks off, I'm sure these will return alongside an expanded range of options and specials. (Says a silent prayer the patron saint of sandwiches, Saint Cubano Magnifico).

Danger lurks in the dessert menu. I have little in the way of a sweet tooth, but it's asking for trouble to have the words 'ice cream' and 'bacon' in close proximity to each other, and expect me to not investigate. Pillowed on a commendably fudgy chocolate brownie, this was an unexpected treat.

 

Salty, creamy and with tiny morsels of pig? By my reckoning that covers all the major food groups.

So- a slimmed-down menu with a real 'we mean business' opening weekend feel to it. It was heaving yesterday when we left- we got there early, very early- and that will only increase. Of course, the new booking system will hopefully ensure things are less frantic and more predictable for the team, but at first glance Hang Fire's golden streak is in no danger of coming to a halt any time soon.