After the distinctly underwhelming start to our quest- disappointing details here- we were keen to saddle up, bite the bullet and mix metaphors.
The prospect of finding good burgers at a tea house might seem a bit of a stretch. The prospect of finding them in an Indian restaurant even more fanciful. Finding a good burger in an Indian tea-house then might be optimistic.
However, Chaiholics has undergone a recent rebandding as an evening bistro under the aegis of Pramod Nair. If you're a regular reader- and may flights of angels sing thee to thy rest, etc etc- then you'll know I visited here recently and was as impressed as I expected to be, as I've been a fan of his cooking since coming across it in Spiceberry.
The Grill and Barrel: Bun- Just as we were talking about the possibility of ever seeing a wholemeal bun on a burger, as opposed to the brioche which is becoming standard burger fare these days... as if the burger gods sent us a sign, Chaiholics serve theirs up on a brown bun. It was lightly toasted on the inside but the rest was good and springy.
Patty- A succulent portion of smoky meat with a good helping of spice, just enough to tingle the lips but not too much to have you reaching for the water. After debating whether or not it could be classed as a burger, again as if the burger gods sent us a sign, it came out formed into a patty.
Condiments-a slather of wonderfully sweet mango chutney which played with the smokey flavour of the meat and offset the heat.
Toppings- none really to speak of unless we are counting the salad which was decent. Thinly-sliced red onion, again adding a bit of sweetness but also a much needed crunch to the burger. (I've also tried the tamarind chutney and beetroot chutney they do here and they are impeccable, especially with the potato and sweetcorn fritters.)
Sides-crisp chips yet fluffy on the inside with a generous powdering of spice.
Drinks-if you're a tea lover then you're in heaven, if you don't care to much for the stuff and would prefer an ale or a craft beer, like myself, then there's not much on offer.
Atmosphere-hit and miss. Some nights its rammed and people are waiting for a seat, whereas I have been the only one in there, although the decor and design of the place is stunning; a truck stop-esque bistro bazaar and the furnishing just add to the authenticity of Pramod's menu.
The Plate Licked Clean: At times a burger quest can feel as if you're risking Death by Brioche. (Memo to Tony Hayers: An idea for a really middle-class serial killer. He dispatches them with upmarket baked goods, leaving not a crumb of evidence. If this fails, try Monkey Tennis). When done well it can be a wonderful thing, but it was a pleasant surprise to have a wholewheat bap served up.
I'm still in two minds as to whether this is actually a burger as we understand it, ie a recognisable formed patty of animal protein. Though this was presented as a shaped mound of pulled meat, I'm still not sure. Still. What it is though is unusual and it's billed as a 'burger' on the menu, which is rare enough to deserve comment. I can't recall any other 'burgers' on any other Indian menus, though I'm sure the more eagle-eyed will enlighten me if I'm wrong.
The meat, though, regardless of label, was clearly the result of some serious thought. A testament to the transformative power of slow cooking, this was dense with layers of flavour that built a subtle heat which crept up me and left that telltale tingle lingering for a while after without being offputtingly spicy at the time of eating. Boneless leg of lamb marinated in mace, black cardamom, star anise, cinnamon, ginger, garlic and then bathed in tenderising yoghurt, then gently cooked for hours until it was ready to be 'pulled'... It obviously wouldn't have the bite of a fine beef patty, but the 'tower' of meat which arrived squeezed down to make a substantially juicy handful of food. The lick of sweet mango chutney, the creaminess of the garlic soft cheese, the leaves and cucumber batons: everything was working in symphony. Nothing dominated but all were palpable.
The chips were very well done, despite not being something you'd immediately associate with an Indian restaurant. An undeniably Indian take on the classic French fry, dry and crisp with a kick from the ground spice seasoning.
This quest is about finding what's good- really good- in the area. We are also keen to uncover more adventurous, more left-field examples of the burgermaker's art. It's safe to say both these fit the bill. And after the drab disappointments of last week's effort, it feels like we've found something well worth telling people about.
Classic 'burger' or not...
Scores on the doors:
Chaiholics
Unit 6,
The Globe Centre,
Wellfield Road,
Cardiff,
CF24 3PJ
Tel: 029 20 495 975
Email: info@chaiholics.com
Opening Hours:
Monday to Saturday 11.00am – 11.00pm
Sunday - Closed
The Plate Licked Clean: At times a burger quest can feel as if you're risking Death by Brioche. (Memo to Tony Hayers: An idea for a really middle-class serial killer. He dispatches them with upmarket baked goods, leaving not a crumb of evidence. If this fails, try Monkey Tennis). When done well it can be a wonderful thing, but it was a pleasant surprise to have a wholewheat bap served up.
I'm still in two minds as to whether this is actually a burger as we understand it, ie a recognisable formed patty of animal protein. Though this was presented as a shaped mound of pulled meat, I'm still not sure. Still. What it is though is unusual and it's billed as a 'burger' on the menu, which is rare enough to deserve comment. I can't recall any other 'burgers' on any other Indian menus, though I'm sure the more eagle-eyed will enlighten me if I'm wrong.
The meat, though, regardless of label, was clearly the result of some serious thought. A testament to the transformative power of slow cooking, this was dense with layers of flavour that built a subtle heat which crept up me and left that telltale tingle lingering for a while after without being offputtingly spicy at the time of eating. Boneless leg of lamb marinated in mace, black cardamom, star anise, cinnamon, ginger, garlic and then bathed in tenderising yoghurt, then gently cooked for hours until it was ready to be 'pulled'... It obviously wouldn't have the bite of a fine beef patty, but the 'tower' of meat which arrived squeezed down to make a substantially juicy handful of food. The lick of sweet mango chutney, the creaminess of the garlic soft cheese, the leaves and cucumber batons: everything was working in symphony. Nothing dominated but all were palpable.
The chips were very well done, despite not being something you'd immediately associate with an Indian restaurant. An undeniably Indian take on the classic French fry, dry and crisp with a kick from the ground spice seasoning.
This quest is about finding what's good- really good- in the area. We are also keen to uncover more adventurous, more left-field examples of the burgermaker's art. It's safe to say both these fit the bill. And after the drab disappointments of last week's effort, it feels like we've found something well worth telling people about.
Classic 'burger' or not...
Scores on the doors:
Chaiholics
Unit 6,
The Globe Centre,
Wellfield Road,
Cardiff,
CF24 3PJ
Tel: 029 20 495 975
Email: info@chaiholics.com
Opening Hours:
Monday to Saturday 11.00am – 11.00pm
Sunday - Closed
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