Rouse Rengert fine dining

"This could all get a bit 'Wicker Man'," says my fellow diner, nodding at the wall ornaments. I'm fairly sure they are agricultural artifacts, though there's no doubting their sinister potential (is that a scythe?) What do I know, though. We're at a country pub only found after much trial and error. It feels like the middle of nowhere: or Bassaleg, as the locals call it. 

But we are not here for their calling-card exotic meats: elk and alligator will have to wait.

This is a trial run before Rouse Rengert hits Cardiff, first for Valentine's Day at The Gate and then for more dates around the city. This isn't a kitchen takeover in its usual sense, as everything from prep to pass is done in a bespoke trailer we pass on the way in: Chef Charles Rouse, formerly of The Hardwick, has fine dining in his blood (his grandfather cooked for The Queen and her mother) but is now striking out with his partner Uta Rengert and bringing elegant cooking into homes.

A veloute to start. If what you like in sweet corn is a high nobbliness quotient, if you take yours with some real bite to it, this is a revelation- a silken texture with subtle toasted flavours coming through: luxurious, and packing a hell of a lot of flavour into each tiny spoonful. It's a promising start. 

Then scallops with beetroot caviar, mooli and carrot. Prettier than the picture suggests, with the molluscs beautifully sweet, though I found the dressing a little too tart for my liking against the perfectly cooked shellfish. 

Main course- feather blade beef, braised then shredded and topped with puy lentils in a glossy, oozing red wine reduction; fondant potato, heavy on the butter, toothsome veg. Parsnip and truffle purées completed the plate. A huge hit with the table, this: one of those plates which forces conversation into the back seat.

Dessert was a showcase of flavours and techniques. Clearly, no one ever told Mr Rouse not to play with his food, because there were so many textures and techniques on display here. A mango tagliatelle, a strawberry 'caviar', a blueberry mousse, a white chocolate parfait, a lemon macaron and a pineapple fluid gel all competing for your attention. It's dazzling stuff.

Rouse Rengert is about to launch a series of popup appearances in Cardiff, starting at The Gate, Roath. There's a dinner on 14th February, with more locations to follow. Follow their social media for an opportunity to catch them. There's some serious know-how here, and a love of big flavours using the best local ingredients. You wouldn't regret it.

Rouse Rengert Cuisine
rouserengertcuisine.co.uk

I was invited to Rouse Rengert and as such all food was complimentary, although this does not oblige me to form a positive opinion. I call it as I see it.